Rowan Sweater Hack Along PT4 - Creating your colorblock

August 30, 2020

Jump to the previous post in the hack along: Rowan Sweater Hack Along PT3 - Sizing & adjustments. Jump to the next post in the hack along: Rowan Sweater Hack Along - How to add the Doris Waistband - by Kim

I hope you had a good night sleep despite all the design ideas and colorblocks that might have been floating around in your head! I for one am a terrible sleeper when I’m in design mode. I just get so excited when I think about design possibilities! But this is definitely the fun part of our Hack Along! If you’re still undecided on what colorblock you’re going to make, try visualising your ideas using our design templates (find them in our FB group!)! Next to creating a custom colorblock, we’re also adding an (optional) inseam pocket to our design, which is totally beginner friendly to sew. If this is something you’d like to add, make sure to keep the placement of that pocket seam and subsequently the pocket, in mind!

So here’s what we’ll cover today:

• Tracing and doubling your base pattern
• Creating the colorblock
• Adding an inseam pocket (optional)

Tracing and doubling your base pattern

Today we’re going to start with the pattern basis you’ve prepared yesterday. I know, there’s a lot of tracing and then some more tracing going on! It can be tempting to continue with your base pattern (with the fit and length adjustments)  in creating the colorblock. But I personally like to trace my basis for future reference (or when I end up making a mistake!) and start on a “blank canvas”. Especially in creating colorblocks, any lines previously added to adjust the fit, can be so distracting and throw you off your design game! 

So the first step is to trace your front bodice and double it, this way omitting the “cut on fold” center front. This means all the pattern pieces originating from your colorblock design, will be cut once from the fabric! For the colorblock I’m doing (based on Kim’s design), I’m only going to hack the front bodice. But if your own custom design also involves colorblock at the back (or at the sleeves), also trace and double the back bodice! Don’t forget to add a notch centerfront (or centerback) at the neck line.

• DORIS SKIRT BOTTOM BAND - Remember how Kim awesomely added the Doris skirt waistband as a bottom band to her Rowan dress hack? If you're interested in doing that as well, now is the time to jump to the how-to written by Kim, before coming back here to create your colorblock!

Creating the colorblock & adding an inseam pocket (optional)

Let’s start colorblocking! Draw in the lines of your (custom) colorblock. Give it a critical look. Do you like the placement? How’s the balance?

This step is an optional one - we’re going to add an inseam pocket! My kids love everything with pockets! And using one of the (diagonal) colorblock seams is mighty easy and creates such a fun look! First of all, draw a guideline 5 cm (2”) from the bottom - this is where the hem will hit once folded up towards the inside. For the sweater version, this line marks the depth of the pocket.

Next, if you have your child around, do a quick and dirty trace of your child’s hand on a piece of paper and cut it out. Alternatively, trace your own hand! Now, place the hand on your design, close to a side seam. Is there enough room for the hand (and all the treasures!)? For the sweater version, does the hand overlap the guideline? If that’s the case, you might want to adjust the placement of your colorblock seam (or maybe even all the seams)!

If you’re satisfied with your colorblock lines and the space around your child’s hand, draw square lines around the hand. This is going to be the inside pocket bag!

Before tracing our new colorblock pattern pieces, let’s add some notches (blue lines) to make lining things up while sewing so much easier! Make sure to place all notches at a 90 degree angle from the seam. Also add notches on
seam intersections. If you’re making a sweater/dress WITH a pocket, you don’t have to add a notch crossing the pocket insert (see arrow)! Add numbers to your colorblock pattern pieces, starting with the upper pieces working your way down. Add arrows on all pattern pieces indicating the grainline.

Start by tracing colorblock piece 1, adding a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance (in light pink) to the lower seam. Transfer all the necessary notches. 

Next trace colorblock piece 2, including the pocket bag.  Add a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance to the seams without seam allowance. Transfer all the necessary notches and add an additional notch marking the pocket opening at the side seam.

Sweater/dress without a pocket: trace colorblock piece 2, adding a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance to the seams without seam allowance. Transfer all the necessary notches.

First, trace the pocket bag and cut it out. Flip it over to the other side of the seam.

Next trace colorblock piece 3, including the pocket bag. Add a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance to the seams without seam allowance. Transfer all the necessary notches and add an additional notch marking the bottom pocket at the side seam. Because of the seam allowance, this should be 1cm (⅜”) lower than the original pocket bag line!

Sweater/dress without a pocket: trace colorblock piece 3, adding a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance to the seams without seam allowance. Transfer all the necessary notches.

Yay! You’ve successfully created the pattern pieces for your colorblock! That wasn’t so hard, was it? Tomorrow we’re going to cut our fabric, so make sure to pre-wash all your fabrics! Now treat yourself to some coffee, cake, vino….and fuel up for tomorrow’s next chapter!

XO

Elles

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