HACK || Cube Cardigan with a zipper

September 30, 2022

Are you team #zipper or team #buttons when it comes to cardigans? I'm definitely team #zipper in wearing, but team #buttons, when it comes to construction. Okay, let's clarify. When I say "buttons", I mean snap buttons. Because even with fancy button attachment and buttonhole automation on my sewing machine, it's a task I'd rather avoid. So a Cube cardigan zipper hack needed to happen, obviously by using a block zipper and some treasured Minecraft fabric, according to my son. And I couldn't agree more! Here's how it's done!

SUPPLIES

Next to your Cube cardigan pattern, fabrics and sewing materials, you need some additional tools and supplies: 

• a separating zipper (a plastic one is easiest, but you can also use a metal one). The length of the zipper is determined in the next step.
• optional: contrast jersey fabric to bind your zipper seam. 

Step 1 - Prepping your pattern pieces. The only 2 pattern pieces you have to adjust for this zipper hack, are the cardigan front bodice (1) and the cardigan front bottom band (19A or 19B). From the cardigan front bodice, remove 6cm (2 1/3") from the front line. You should end up with a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance before the second notch. From the front bottom band, remove 2,5cm (1"). At this point you can also calculate the zipper length you need, taking the seam allowances into account. Also keep in mind that the bottom bands are folded in half later on, so you only need to take half of that measurement!

Step 2 - Sewing your cardigan - Now you can sew your cardigan by following the tutorial of the pattern, with a few minor differences:

• skip the placket and front bottom band interfacing. We don't have to interface those areas anymore.
• skip attaching the collar - we're doing this after attaching the zipper.
• the bottom band construction: only attach the front bottom band to the back bottom band as instructed in the tutorial, but don't close the short seams. You can leave them open - they will be finished later by the zipper - and simply fold (and press) the total bottom band in half. 

Attaching your zipper

Step 3 - First you have to determine the correct length of your zipper. With the right sides together, line up your zipper with one side of your cardigan, carefully lining them up at the bottom. Mark the zipper 1cm (3/8") below the cardigan neckline (this is the seam allowance you're going to need to attach the collar later on). Also mark the bottom band placement on both sides - this will make it easier to line them up! Shorten your zipper, for more detailed instruction on how to shorten a zipper, please check out this blogpost.

Step 4 - With the right sides together, line up the left side of the zipper with your cardigan. Make sure to match the marking for the bottom band with the bottom band seam. Pin in place and attach the zipper using a zipper foot.

Step 5 - Adding a binding. This step is totally optional, at this point you can also  trim your seam allowance so it's covered by the zipper tape. But if you want to bind your zipper with a contrast binding, prepare a strip of jersey fabric a slightly longer length as the zipper x 4cm (1,5") width. Fold the binding in half with the wrong sides together. Place the binding with the right side up over the zipper. Make sure the binding extends by 1cm (3/8") below the bottom band. Attach the binding. Tip: If you turn your cardigan with the wrong side up, the stitches of attaching the zipper can be used as a guide line for attaching the binding.

Step 6 - Trim the seam allowances. Press the binding towards the inside of the cardigan and pin in place. At the bottom, fold the binding in, this way covering the bottom end of the zipper.

Step 7 - Topstitch the binding close to the edge. Repeat for the other side of the zipper. At this point you're ready to attach your collar!

Attaching the collar

Step 8 - Attaching the collar is almost the same as described in the tutorial, so it might come in handy to keep it close for extra clarification. The only difference is to place the collar on top of the cardigan and line up the folded edge of the collar with the zipper. Pin in place.

Step 9 - With the right sides together, place the collar facing on top of the bodice and collar. Pin in place. The facing is overlapping the zipper by 1cm (3/8"). Stitch the 1cm (3/8”) seam until the first corner, using a knit stitch or a small zigzag stitch. 

Step 10 - Repeat the previous 2 steps for the other side of the cardigan. 

Step 11 - After clipping the corners of the bodice and facings, pin the back collar seam and facing in place. Stitch the back collar seam starting exactly from the short collar seam and ending exactly at the other short collar seam. Check out the tutorial for more details.

Step 12 - Pin the the collar facing to the sleeve seams. Stitch in place.

Step 13 - Trim the seam allowance at the top of the zipper. Fold the 1cm (3/8") seam allowance of the collar facing in towards the wrong side.

Step 14 - Carefully fold the collar facings down and pin in place. Fasten the collar facing by stitching close to the folded edge of the facing, close to the zipper teeth.

And tada, happy kid! A beautifully finished Cube Cardigan with a zipper! Make sure to checkout our Hackalogue for more Misusu patterns hacks!

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