Dia Sweater Full Bust Adjustment - Part 1

February 07, 2019

EDITED: Before you dive into this intro + tutorial, we have some good news: behind the scenes at Misusu headquarters, we’re working very hard to add FBA front bodices (C & D cup) to our Dia sweater pattern. This will also be the new standard for all our upcoming ladies (top) patterns. But there’s still a lot of work and testing to be done! In the meantime, we’ve done our very best to set up a great tutorial for those of you eager to get started on their Dia with FBA. But first, let’s start off with an introduction to this daunting thing called FBA…..(or skip intro and go the actual tutorial here)

INTRO
Do you often end up with a sewn garment that is too large in the neck and shoulder area, even though you selected the correct size by following the pattern’s size chart, based on your bust measurements? Or maybe some of the following fitting issues sound familiar:

• Gaping at the neckline
• Shoulder seams that extend past your own shoulders
• Gaping armholes
• A pinch or wrinkle of fabric forming at your armhole above your bust

Even when your body measurements come close to one of the standard sizes of a pattern, you might still encounter these fitting issues. If that’s the case, you might be in need of one of the most common pattern adjustments used to create a better fitting garment - the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). When performing a FBA, you ensure a better fit for your shoulders and neck by starting off with a smaller pattern size and increasing the bust size.

But how to know for sure? Maybe you’ve already gained some experience by sewing a few garments and you're aware of your personal fitting challenges. But if you’re a novice sewer and you’re still getting to know your body, we can rely on a bit of math. But before we get there, I need to explain a thing or two about drafting a pattern. Oh, and get yourself a cup of coffee and a treat because this is going to be a long read!

 

PATTERN CUP SIZES
All patterns are drafted using a specific PATTERN CUP size. Most companies use a B cup, which is the “industry standard” for pattern design. But there are also companies out there that use C, D or greater cup sizes.

Pattern cup sizes are based on the difference between the high bust and the (full) bust measurements. When the difference between those 2 measurements,  is 2,5cm (1 inch) , then it’s an A cup. 5 cm (2 inches) for a B cup, 7,5 cm (3 inches) for a C cup, and so on.  

The Dia sweater is drafted for a B-cup pattern cup, with a difference of 5cm between the high bust and full bust.

But here’s where it gets a bit confusing - pattern cup sizes are different from bra cup sizes! When you wear a B-cup bra, it does not necessarily mean you need a B-cup pattern! So before you get started with a pattern, it’s important to figure out your own personal pattern cup size!

 

DETERMINE YOUR OWN PATTERN CUP SIZE

For starters, you’re going to measure your full bust. Wear your go-to bra. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bust. Pull the tape snugly but not too tight!

Next measure your high bust. Wrap the tape around your chest and under your arms. Pull the tape snugly. Subtract your high bust from your full bust. The difference is your pattern cup size!

Up to 2,5cm - 1” = A cup
Up to 5 cm - 2” = B cup
Up to 7,5 cm - 3” = C cup
Up to 10 cm - 4” = D cup
Up to 12,5 cm - 5” = E (DD) cup
And so on.

If your personal cup size differs from the pattern’s cup size, there’s a good chance that you’ll get a better fit by selecting a pattern size that fits your neck and shoulders and doing a FBA to the increase the bust size.

Let’s take my own personal measurements for example. My upper/high bust measurement is 88 cm and my full bust measurement is 96 cm. The difference of 8cm makes me a C+ cup. I would advise myself to do a FBA.

 

DIA SWEATER FBA RECOMMENDATION
The principal of this tutorial on how to do a FBA (described further down) can be used on any pattern with a flat front.
In general if your measurements place you in a different pattern cup size than the cup size of the pattern you are using - which in this case means a difference bigger than 5cm between the upper bust and bust measurements- a FBA is recommended. But because of the Dia sweater’s relaxed loose fit and generous ease (7 cm - 2,75” ease around the bust and around the hips) we’ve tested and created a custom bust adjustment recommendation specific to the Dia Sweater.  
 

RECOMMENDATION:

 

Based on personal preference and experience, you can divert from this recommendation. If you’re working with a different pattern from a different brand, I’d advise to follow the accompanying instructions or contact the designer for further assistance, make a muslin and go from there. At the bottom of this blogpost, you’ll find some links to helpful blog posts on various types of FBA.

 

CONVERT YOUR PERSONAL PATTERN CUP SIZE BASED ON YOUR UPPER BUST MEASUREMENTS.

If you’ve come to the conclusion that you need to do a FBA, start off by determining which pattern size fits your upper bust the best. In my case, the upper bust measurement that comes closest to my own upper bust measurement of 88 cm is size DD. This size will be the starting point for my FBA.

Side note: You may have to grade between sizes at the waist and hip later on, depending on your proportions and measurements. It’s not rare to need a size DD with a FBA and a size FF for the hips. We all come in beautifully different shapes and sizes! The important thing here is to start off with the right size for your shoulders and upper chest. After doing your FBA you can grade out to the other sizes for your waist and hips.

 

CALCULATE YOUR FBA
We just calculated that a size DD will be the best fit for my upper chest and shoulders. But by looking at the size chart, I know that the size DD is drafted for a 92 cm full bust and my measured full bust is 96cm. This is a 4cm difference. With the pattern size DD as my starting point, I need to add the difference of 4 cm through my FBA to increase the bust width of the pattern, which means I have to increase each half of the front bodice by 2 cm.

At this point, you’ve done the math and figured out if and how much you need to add through your FBA. Head over to the Tutorial - Part 2 blog post, for the detailed step by step tutorial to perform your own FBA!

 

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